Why hair turns brassy
- Underlying pigment. When hair is lightened, warm pigment is left behind, and it shows if the hair wasn't lifted far enough or toned.
- Toner fading. The cool toner on top washes out over weeks, uncovering the warmth beneath.
- Ash dye fading faster than warm dye. Cool tones in box colour can fade first, leaving the warmer part of the formula behind.
- Sun, heat, hard water and chlorine, which all speed up fading or add mineral tints.
Which corrector fixes which brassy tone
| You see | Usually at level | Reach for |
|---|---|---|
| Pale or lemon yellow | 9 to 10 | Purple shampoo, violet toner |
| Golden yellow | 8 | Blue-violet or pearl toner |
| Orange | 6 to 7 | Blue shampoo, ash or blue toner |
| Red-orange or copper | 5 to 6 | Blue-ash shade or toner |
| Red | 3 to 5 | Green-based or matte shade |
Not sure which you have? Pick your level on the wheel tool to see the likely warmth and its opposite.
Purple shampoo or blue shampoo?
Purple cancels yellow and blue cancels orange. Purple shampoo on orange hair makes little visible difference, and blue shampoo on pale yellow can leave hair looking slightly grey-green. If you have both (orange roots, yellow ends), some people alternate the two or use a blue-violet product.
How to tone down brassy hair, mildest first
- Start with a toning shampoo once or twice. Leave it on for the time on the bottle, then rinse.
- If that's not enough, try a toning mask or gloss. These deposit more pigment.
- For stronger warmth, use a demi toner matched to the level, after a patch test and strand test. See toning.
- If the hair simply isn't light enough for the shade you want, toning won't solve it. Either embrace a warmer shade or lift further, ideally with a professional.
How to stop brassiness coming back
- Use a toning shampoo regularly but not every wash.
- Wash in cooler water and less often.
- Protect hair from sun and chlorine. The maintenance guide has the details.
- Refresh toner every few weeks or as needed.
Brassy brown hair
Brown hair that has been lightened even slightly often turns red-orange. A cool brown or ash brown shade can calm it, and a blue or green-tinted shampoo helps between colours. On very dark hair, a little warmth is often unavoidable without a bigger lift.
Brassy hair questions
Does purple shampoo fix orange hair?
Not much. Purple cancels yellow. For orange, use a blue shampoo or an ash or blue toner.
How often should I use purple shampoo?
Regularly but not every wash, often once a week or when warmth appears. Too much can leave a violet cast.
Why is my brown hair turning orange?
Lightening brown hair even slightly exposes red-orange pigment. An ash brown shade or a blue or green-tinted shampoo calms it. The undertones guide explains why.