Skin depth and skin undertone
Skin has a depth (fair, light, medium, deep) and an undertone that sits underneath it. The undertone stays the same whether or not you have a tan, and it's the more useful of the two when choosing hair colour.
- Cool: pink, red or bluish undertones.
- Warm: golden, peachy or yellow undertones.
- Neutral: a mix, with neither side clearly winning.
- Olive: a green-grey cast. Often treated as neutral-to-cool, though it varies.
Quick ways to read your undertone
- White versus cream. Hold a pure white and an off-white cloth under your face in daylight. Cool skin often looks better against bright white, warm skin against cream.
- Silver versus gold. Notice which metal people tend to compliment on you. Treat it as a hint.
- The vein check. Bluish-purple veins on the inner wrist lean cool, and greenish ones lean warm. This is unreliable on deeper skin and in poor light, so treat it as one clue among several.
- How you tan. Skin that burns easily and turns pink often leans cool, while skin that tans golden often leans warm.
Best hair colours for warm, cool and neutral skin
| Undertone | Shades that usually flatter | Shades that can wash you out |
|---|---|---|
| Cool | Ash and beige blondes, cool browns, burgundy, blue-black | Very golden or brassy tones |
| Warm | Honey, golden and caramel blondes, copper, warm chestnut | Very ash or icy shades |
| Neutral | Most shades; natural and beige tones are especially easy | Extremes at either end can still look stark |
Think of these as defaults. Plenty of people wear "the wrong" tone well, especially with makeup or clothing that bridges the gap.
Hair and skin contrast
Contrast is the difference between your hair, skin, eyes and brows. People with naturally high contrast (very dark hair with fair skin, for example) often look best keeping some of that contrast. People with soft, low contrast tend to suit shades within two or three levels of their natural colour. A very large jump in either direction can make brows and skin look out of step, which is why colourists often suggest staying within that range for a first change.
Hair colour, eye colour and brows
Warm shades can bring out green and hazel eyes, and cool shades can sharpen blue and grey eyes. Brows matter more than people expect, because hair much lighter than your brows can look unbalanced. Don't apply hair dye to brows or lashes, as products are not made for use near the eyes.
How to test a hair colour before you commit
- Hold a swatch or a coloured fabric against your face in daylight.
- Try a semi-permanent shade, which washes out gradually, before a permanent change. The dye types guide compares the options.
- Do a strand test on a hidden section to see the real result on your hair.
Next, check what's achievable from your starting point on the levels page.
Skin tone questions
How do I know if my skin is warm or cool?
Use several clues together: white versus cream fabric in daylight, which metal suits you, how you tan, and the colour of the veins on your inner wrist.
What hair colour suits olive skin?
Olive skin is often treated as neutral to cool, though it varies. Try a swatch against your face in daylight before deciding.
Does a tan change my undertone?
No. Your skin's depth changes with a tan, but the undertone stays the same.