The hair level chart
Most brands describe depth on a scale from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Some extend it to 11 or 12 for high-lift blondes. The names vary slightly between brands, but the idea is the same.
| Level | Usual name | Underlying pigment when lifted |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Black | Dark red-brown |
| 2 | Darkest brown | Red-brown |
| 3 | Dark brown | Red |
| 4 | Medium brown | Red |
| 5 | Light brown | Red-orange |
| 6 | Dark blonde | Orange |
| 7 | Medium blonde | Orange-gold |
| 8 | Light blonde | Gold-yellow |
| 9 | Very light blonde | Yellow |
| 10 | Lightest blonde | Pale yellow |
These pigment stages are approximate. They describe natural, uncoloured hair. Hair that has been dyed before can lift unevenly or stay warmer than the chart suggests.
How to find your natural level
- Use daylight. Stand near a window. Indoor bulbs make hair look warmer or darker than it is.
- Look at the roots. Part your hair and look at the first centimetre or two of regrowth, close to the scalp, where there is no old dye or sun fading.
- Look at a section, not one hair. A single strand looks lighter than a mass of hair.
- Compare with a chart or swatch. Hold the swatch flat against the hair. If you are between two levels, choose the darker one, since most people overestimate how light they are.
What the numbers on a hair dye box mean
A shade such as 7.3 or 7/3 reads as level then tone. The first number is depth. The digits after the dot or slash describe the tone, with the first tone digit being the strongest. Many brands use a numbering like this:
| Tone digit | Often means |
|---|---|
| 0 | Natural (neutral) |
| 1 | Ash (blue-based) |
| 2 | Violet or iridescent |
| 3 | Gold |
| 4 | Copper |
| 5 | Mahogany (red-violet) |
| 6 | Red |
| 7 | Matte or green-based (in some ranges) |
Systems differ, and some brands use letters (N, A, G, C, R, V) instead of digits. Always read the brand's own chart.
How many levels can you lift?
Colour on its own can't lighten other colour. Box dye can lift natural hair a little, but if you've dyed your hair darker in the past, a lighter box shade on top won't lift that old dye out. So the gap between your current level and your goal shapes the whole plan:
- Same level or darker: a simple deposit. Semi or demi colour works.
- One to three levels lighter on natural hair: usually possible with a permanent colour and the right developer.
- Four or more levels, or lighter over old dye: needs lightener (bleach) or a colour remover, then toning. See going lighter.
Why hair turns warmer as it gets lighter
Natural hair contains two kinds of melanin: dark brown-black eumelanin and warmer red-yellow pheomelanin. Lightening breaks down the dark pigment more readily, so the warm pigment shows through at each stage. That's the "underlying pigment" in the table, and it's the reason toning exists. Try it on the level selector, and see toning and toners for what to do about it.
Hair level questions
What level is my hair?
Check your roots in daylight against a level chart or swatch. If you fall between two levels, choose the darker one.
What does 7.3 mean on hair dye?
On many brands, 7 is the level (medium blonde) and .3 is the tone, often gold. Systems differ, so check the brand's own chart.
Can box dye lighten hair that was dyed darker?
No. Colour can't lift old artificial colour. That needs lightener or a colour remover, then toning. See going lighter.