What a hair toner is
A toner is a low-strength deposit colour, usually demi-permanent or semi-permanent, applied over lightened hair to adjust its tone. It neutralises unwanted warmth (yellow, gold, orange) or adds a chosen tone such as beige, pearl or rose. Most salon toners are mixed with a low-volume developer, often 10 volume (3%), but follow the instructions for the exact product.
What toner can't do
- It can't lighten. A toner on level 7 hair gives you a cooler level 7, and it won't reach level 9.
- It can't fix very uneven lightening, because patchy lift shows through.
- It doesn't last. Toner fades with washing, so warmth slowly returns.
How to choose a toner shade for your level
Match the toner to the underlying pigment you can see, using the opposite tone from the colour wheel:
| Lifted to | Visible warmth | Toner family |
|---|---|---|
| Level 10 | Pale yellow | Violet or pearl (light touch) |
| Level 9 | Yellow | Violet |
| Level 8 | Gold-yellow | Blue-violet |
| Level 7 | Orange-gold | Blue or blue-violet ash |
| Level 6 | Orange | Blue (ash) |
Choose the toner level to match the level you've lifted to, or one level lighter for a softer effect. A toner darker than your lifted level adds depth as well as tone.
Toning shampoo, mask, gloss or demi toner?
Toning shampoo and conditioner
Purple or blue pigment that deposits a little each wash. Mild, gradual and easy to control. Best for maintenance.
Toning mask
A stronger, conditioning version left on for a few minutes. Good between salon visits.
Gloss or glaze
A clear or tinted demi or semi colour that adds shine and adjusts tone across the whole head.
Demi toner with developer
The salon standard after bleaching. It gives the most control and the most even result, but needs a patch test and careful timing.
How to tone hair: the general sequence
- Patch test 48 hours before, then strand test the toner on a lightened section.
- Work on clean, towel-dried or dry hair as the product instructions say.
- Apply quickly and evenly to the areas that need it, often lightest areas last because they grab tone fastest.
- Watch the hair as well as the clock. Rinse as soon as the target tone appears, within the maximum time the product allows.
- Rinse in cool water and follow with conditioner.
How to fix over-toned hair
Very porous hair can absorb too much toner and turn lilac, grey or blue. It usually softens with a few washes. A clarifying shampoo speeds that up, and the opposite tone on the wheel (yellow-gold for violet, orange for blue) shows what a counter-gloss would need. Keep a toner's first use short on very pale or damaged ends.
How long does toner last?
Expect a toner to start softening within a few weeks, faster with frequent washing, hot water, sun and chlorine. The maintenance guide covers how to stretch it.
Toner questions
Can I tone hair without bleaching it?
You can add or adjust tone, but toner can't lighten. On unlightened hair the change is usually subtle.
What developer is used with toner?
Most salon toners use a low-volume developer, often 10 volume (3%). Follow the instructions for the exact product.
Should I use toning shampoo every wash?
Usually not. Use it once a week or when warmth appears, as overuse can leave a violet or blue cast. See fixing brassy hair.
Safety first. Do an allergy patch test 48 hours before every permanent or demi-permanent colour, even a brand you have used before, and a strand test to check the result. Many oxidative dyes contain PPD (para-phenylenediamine) or related chemicals that can cause serious allergic reactions. This site gives general information, not medical advice: if you react, rinse the product off and get medical help.